It was the best of New York Fashion Weeks, it was the worst of New York Fashion Weeks. Forgive me for yassifying that great Charles Dickens line. The responses to the Spring 2026 fashion shows that just wrapped up in New York City really are that diametrically opposed and sweepingly general, depending on which critic you ask.
From my seat at the shows, I found a through-line that overpowers the internet-optimized hot takes: “real, relatable looks for women with complicated, demanding lives,” as designer Maria McManus put it. There’s an entire country (and beyond) of women seeking a spark of inspiration for how to dress during, and in spite of the world they live in, for situations that aren’t sitting in a front row or getting snapped by a street style photographer. This season, the best New York Fashion Week looks I saw spoke to those shoppers as well as the certified fashion people in the room. How’d they do it? With smart bursts of color, unconventional layers, and a street-wise sensibility.

The week began with two women-led labels who put their clients front-and-center in their collections. Rachel Comey described her Spring 2026 lineup, hosted just before the official fashion week kick-off, as a blend of “utility and versatility, with moments of spontaneity and intimacy—the latter of which feels almost like a gift (and a reminder) to hardworking women.” This translated to wool blazers cut to layer over cocktail dresses or just denim; a mini white shirt dress with a halfway-folded tank top styled as a belt; triple-decker shirt-sandwiches over leather skirts. These looks were were modeled by women of various ages and backgrounds, who also did their own makeup for the show. (“They’re all interesting adult women with points of view, after all,” Comey said. “As much as I love a large backstage production with producers and team members flying around with walkie-talkies and clipboards, an intimate gathering with women putting on their own lipstick and chatting feels like the room I want to be in.”)

Two days later, Maria McManus started a day of fashion week programming with trench coats, dress-over-matching-pant sets, and diaphanous skirts “built to help us get through our days with more integrity, beauty, and optimism.” When she says her pieces are meant for “school drop-offs, board meetings, interviews, cocktails, [and] road trips,” it doesn’t feel hard to imagine. Her palette of a dreamy lavender set to mocha mousse brown and black made even the least glamorous hypotheticals feel a little more luxe. Better yet, her ethos extended to the brands tapped to accessorize or round out each look: AGOLDE denim, Le Sundial jewelry, and Esha Soni bags—also all women-led labels.

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